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 Posted: Mon Mar 16th, 2015 11:34 am
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oagaspar
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Big Pre-BaselWorld 2015 Surprise! Oris Divers Sixty-FiveThumbsUp02.gif


Posted by Michael Stockton on Mar 16, 2015Despite my affinity for vintage watches, this time of year is a bit like Christmas morning due to all the new releases to come at Baselworld. So, the bottom line is that, yes, I enjoy new watches as well. What I really enjoy, however, are new pieces that properly draw from a brand’s heritage. Certain manufacturers, such as Tudor, have exhibited a talent for introducing revised models based on their back catalog during the past several years. Other brands, which we won’t mention, have been less successful. Today, however, on Fratellowatches, we are excited to introduce an unexpected model that we think will be a great vintage-inspired success: the Oris Divers Sixty-Five.






First, let’s review some light background on Oris. Oris is an interesting company: they only produce mechanical watches. They were founded in 1904 in Hoelstein, Switerland and remain private to this day. They are notable for having four lines of watches: Motor Sport, Aviation, Culture and Diving. Oris is also the sole supplier to the Williams-Martini Formula One team. Within the Culture line, Oris produces a reasonably well-known series of watches dedicated to famous historic jazz performers. While some of these watches are classically designed, you wouldn’t call them retro or vintage. No, the last time Oris really looked to their past was back in 2005 when a nod to their 1970’s Chronoris chronograph was introduced. So, needless to say, a vintage-inspired model is a surprise.









Oris has decided to base the Sixty-Five watch on a diving model from 50 years ago: yes, 1965. My only luck in finding something of this vintage was from a posting on the friendsoforis.com site by user “KennyWYL” from back in 2009. Interestingly, the original Oris used a manual wind movement, chrome plated brass case, contained an angled-bezel date window at 3:00, and contained a water resistance of 100m. It’s difficult to tell the diameter on the original 36mm, but Oris’ new release states that the Sixty-Five was upsized to fit modern tastes. All in all, it was a nice looking watch but not a standout. By the way, if anyone wishes to post pictures in the comments section of a vintage Oris more closely related to today’s release, we’d love to see them!









Returning to today, when I think about what makes a vintage-inspired watch successful, it’s all in the details. But before I subject you to a dose of opinion on these, let’s get down to brass tacks and give you the particulars of the Sixty-Five:
Reference: 733 7707 4064, Oris Divers Sixty-Five
Movement: Oris Cal. 733, based on Sellita SW200. Automatic with hand winding and date at 6:00
Case Diameter: 40mm, Stainless Steel
Water Resistance: 10ATM, 100 Meters
Bezel: Unidirectional with black aluminum inlay and Super Luminova filled zero marker
Dial/Hands: Curved black with printed “Light old Radium” Super Luminova accents. Hands are nickel with Super Luminova accents.
Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective interior coating
Crown: Screw-in with “Oris” script
Case back: Screw-down with vintage “Oris” logo
Strap Options: Rubber “tropic style” with Oris pin buckle and available NATO with folding clasp.
Price: 1,600 Euros
So, now that we’ve listed the basics, let’s talk initial thoughts on this watch. I’m excited to hear what you, our readers, think but I am deeply impressed with what I see so far. When I’m on the Autobahn in mind-numbing traffic, daydreaming about what it would be like to design a vintage-inspired watch, I go through a checklist. In my opinion, Oris ticked about every box.
First off, Oris’ choice of a 40mm case size is a masterstroke. Sure, some retro grouches will decry not using 38 or 39mm but 40mm is the sweet spot for dive watches: just ask the king who uses a crown as their company logo. I simply can’t stress enough that a brand could have also easily gone down the 42 or 44mm route and I think this would have ruined the concept; thanks, Oris, for resisting the temptation. A side view also shows a very thin profile: exactly like a 1960’s diver. Lug length also seems to be in check with early designs. Finally, a domed sapphire crystal is really a must on these types of watches and we’re rewarded with exactly that. It provides a certain warmth to the piece that an angled crystal simply cannot.









The little details are also apparent. Take a look at that subtle winding crown: pill-shaped, finely ridged, and subtly signed. Real thought went into this piece and I’m sure that setting the date, changing the time, and screwing it into the watch body will be a guilty pleasure for the owner. Speaking of date, this is an area where SO MANY watchmakers get it wrong. We’ve seen countless applications of the date window wrongly placed, wrongly sized, using an upsetting font, or, worse, using a white contrasting date wheel due to cost. I can easily forego a date function, but it doesn’t bother me at all on the Sixty-Five because it is nicely integrated into the inner chapter ring at 6:00, uses a non intrusive font and size, and thankfully has a dial-matching black background. Well done!
When we come to the dial, this will be the area that takes the most heat as most WIS decry the use of anything with faux patina. Well, if the stock press photos are anything to go by, this flavor of Super Luminova looks to strike a balance between old and new. It’s not “baked” like other interpretations and it doesn’t look like an ill-fitting new dial in old-style surroundings. Regarding other dial details, I like the distortion that the crystal creates with the hour markers and am anxious to see their actual shapes in person. Other details on the dial that I like are the right balance of writing and the symmetrical balance. I’m actually fine with Oris’ choice to use their current logo as it bridges the piece to their current collection. The overall dial balance, of course, is aided by the date window position. Coming to the hands, Oris drew directly from the historic piece in recreating nicely proportioned hour and minute indicators. The sweep hand adds a nice lollipop pip just inside the inner chapter ring. Everything looks to be well weighted.
Strap-wise, I really like that Oris chose a Tropic design. It fits the watch perfectly and the only other rubber straps that would look as appropriate are, conveniently, other Tropic designs such as the “big hole”. The NATO strap strikes me as a nod to current trends but looks good and I am interested to see the folding clasp. Again, though, I’d go with the Tropic based on photos. I’d also like to see a fine “beads of rice” bracelet but price-wise, this would probably be too much. Incidentally, we don’t know the lug width. Also, for you strap fans, note that the lugs are not cross-drilled. The convenience would have been nice, but it would not have been consistent with the ancestry.









Coming to some functional specs, I expect to hear some concerns about the 100 meter water resistance. While I would have hoped for something a little stronger, the 100 meters is in keeping its ancestor. Furthermore, 100 meters will likely cover the needs of most who will be wearing it. Movement wise, the Oris Caliber 733 is based on the Sellita SW200. This is the ETA 2824 clone and was likely chosen due to availability, cost and other factors. While I can’t comment on what Oris actually does to the as far as modifications, it’s a workhorse movement and competitive with other watches in this price range.
Finally, we come to pricing. At 1600 Euros, I think that Oris has priced the Sixty-Five attractively, especially considering what has occurred with the Swiss Franc over the past several months. With some shrewd negotiation, it should become even more attractive. At the top of my head, I can picture a battle royale with the following pieces: the Longines Heritage Legend Diver (1780 Euro), the newly released Zodiac Sea Wolf ($995 and up), and the Tudor Black Bay (2500 Euro and up). So, we see that Oris has priced itself competitively in this slowly swelling field of competitors. All use either the ETA 2824 or a clone, are sized within 4mm of each other and capture the vintage diver theme quite well.
We look forward to bringing you more detail on the great looking Oris Sixty-Five with some live pictures. For now, enjoy this pre-release. Baselworld 2015, here we come!
More information on Oris on-line.




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 Posted: Mon Mar 16th, 2015 01:34 pm
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stew77
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Love the design and vibe of this one from ORIS, Oscar!bravo.gif

My only complaint is the 10Atm (100m) water resistance rating...come on and at least make it 20Atm (200m).

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 Posted: Tue Mar 17th, 2015 09:48 am
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bigrustypig
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I have to agree with you, Chris. Ideally, WR should have something like a 200, not 100.

The dial is also a great design with the added attraction of the distortion that absolutely makes the distorted numbers look back to the past. I think Dubey & Schaldenbrand had a similar execution on the 12,3, 6 and 9 markers but the model escapes me totally.

I love this one from Oris although, tonight I saw an Aquis with a blue bezel and one more with a green bezel. Just like Bill's new arrival, the bracelets of the Aquis rocks. Very tempting, to say the least.

Thanks for the good article, O.

Last edited on Tue Mar 17th, 2015 09:49 am by bigrustypig

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 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2015 11:01 am
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Speedy Tuesday article from January already, Omega introduces a new Snoopy Award Speedmaster. The Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award is the 45th anniversary limited edition of the Apollo XIII mission from 1970. Although we haven’t seen it in the flesh yet (Thursday morning, we will be first again), we are very excited to see what Omega made of this anniversary edition.
Although it is very different from the earlier Snoopy Award model, it is unmistakably a Speedmaster Professional. The 42mm stainless steel case now has a ceramic black tachymeter bezel though. The tachymeter scale has been applied with Super Luminova, so it will light up in the dark.





The dial of the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award is white and has a number of interesting things on there that needs a mention. Let’s start with the little sentence that starts at the 12 o’clock position: “What could you do in 14 seconds?”. The question is a nod to the 14-second mid-course correction that the Apollo 13 astronauts timed with their on-board back-up timing device: the OMEGA Speedmaster Professional chronograph.
Then there is Snoopy taking a little nap on the sub dial at 9 o’clock, NASA’s watchdog. In order to understand the relationship between Snoopy and NASA, you need to know that:
In 1968, NASA chose the famous beagle as an icon to act as a sort of “watchdog” over its missions. In the same year, NASA decided to use a sterling silver Snoopy pin as a sign of appreciation to NASA employees and contractors together with a commendation letter and a signed framed Snoopy certificate. Each of the sterling silver Snoopy lapel pins has been flown during a NASA mission.
Cartoonist Charles M. Schulz, who created the “Peanuts” comic strip (featuring Snoopy and Charlie Brown) was a supporter of the NASA Apollo missions and agreed to let them use “Snoopy the astronaut” at no cost and even drew the Snoopy figure for the sterling silver lapel pin.
NASA used the Snoopy award for special contributions and outstanding efforts from both NASA personnel and contractors. On October 5th, 1970, NASA gave the Omega Speedmaster a Snoopy award to acknowledge the crucial role the watch played during the Apollo 13 mission.
A little text balloon above Snoopy’s head tells us that “Failure is not an option”. These words were spoken by actor Ed Harris in his role as Apollo 13 Flight Director Gene Kranz in the 1995 movie about the Apollo 13 (featuring Tom Hanks and others).
A lot of text on the dial, but all with a reason and it doesn’t really disturb the dial in my humble opinion. However, it also might be my biased opinion towards the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy. On Thursday we will able to see and try this watch in the flesh and compare it to the existing Speedmaster Snoopy Award from 2003.
An important note is the luminosity of the dial (and tachymeter scale) of the new Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award. Even the sleeping Snoopy will light up in the dark, very impressive.





Now, just like its 2003 predecessor, the cool part of the watch is also on the back side. Where the former model had a sapphire case back with an enamel-like image of Snoopy on the case back (see below), the new Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award has a sterling silver Snoopy. The medallion is protected under sapphire and the applied 925 silver Snoopy on 925 silver plate filled with dark blue enamel with “925 silver pallions” representing the stars .





In the stainless steel case back you will also find the following wording: “SNOOPY AWARD”, “EYES ON THE STARS”, “45TH ANNIVERSARY”, “xxxx/1970″, “APOLLO XIII”. I guess this doesn’t need much explanation, but it also indicates of course that there will be only 1970 pieces available. The previous Snoopy Award had a whopping 5441 pieces and that one is already difficult to source in the pre-owned market these days. I expect that this new Omega Speedmaster Pro Silver Snoopy Award will run out as quickly as last year’s Apollo XI 45th Anniversary edition of the Moonwatch.





The Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award reference 311.32.42.30.04.003 comes on a nice black coated nylon fabric strap with white stitching and a folding clasp. Like all 42mm Speedmaster Professional watches, the lug size is 20mm. You can also add a stainless steel bracelet to this watch, or one of the new Omega NATO straps of course.
A special presentation box is used for the Silver Snoopy Award, including a certificate of authenticity and a 925 sterling silver Snoopy pin and a dedicated newspaper (Apollo XIII). There is no information available about the price for now, but probably somewhere between the list price of the regular Speedmaster Professional ‘Moonwatch’ and the Apollo XI 45th Anniversary Edition (was € 5850 Euro) I guess.




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 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2015 03:33 pm
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oagaspar
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the new Rolex Yachtmaster in Everosegold is awesome imo!ThumbsUp02.gifThumbsUp02.gif


Attachment: yacht master basel 2015.jpg (Downloaded 41 times)

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 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2015 04:09 pm
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I like the new Oris vintage diver a lot !

Cool piece. ThumbsUp02.gif


Only the size of only 40mm is a bit too small I think.
42mm would perfect.



stew77 wrote:
Love the design and vibe of this one from ORIS, Oscar!bravo.gif

My only complaint is the 10Atm (100m) water resistance rating...come on and at least make it 20Atm (200m).



Chris, I think the depth rating is a tribute to the old dive watch from Oris in the pic above.

I think the new Oris vintage diver is tested for more pressure.


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 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2015 10:50 pm
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stew77
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oagaspar wrote:
the new Rolex Yachtmaster in Everosegold is awesome imo!ThumbsUp02.gifThumbsUp02.gif




Agree Oscar...absolutely awesome, and a real stunner!wowzer.gif

Will definitely cost way more than I'm willing to spend, but just look at that unique Rolex rubber strap too! I know it's just a rubber strap, but there seems to be some interesting design elements to it that I'm going to have to look into just a bit more...

A HOT one for sure!

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 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2015 10:58 pm
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stew77
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exc-hulk wrote:
I like the new Oris vintage diver a lot !

Cool piece. ThumbsUp02.gif


Only the size of only 40mm is a bit too small I think.
42mm would perfect.



stew77 wrote:
Love the design and vibe of this one from ORIS, Oscar!bravo.gif

My only complaint is the 10Atm (100m) water resistance rating...come on and at least make it 20Atm (200m).



Chris, I think the depth rating is a tribute to the old dive watch from Oris in the pic above.

I think the new Oris vintage diver is tested for more pressure.




Agree with you on the size Phil!...42mm would be absolutely perfect with this one, but it will likely still work and feed into that vintage vibe.

I don't see anything from ORIS that would have me believe that they test this diver to more pressure than the 100m on the dial (and the caseback)...seems hard to believe that it is not capable of a true "diver" rating of 200m. I might just be willing to dive with this one and see how she does, even with the 100m rating. I don't go any deeper than 120 feet, and that's usually on accident...always try to keep things < 110 feet on the first dive anyway. subtlelaugh.gif (I think I'm in need of a dive vacation!)

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 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2015 11:04 pm
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stew77
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oagaspar wrote:
Speedy Tuesday article from January already, Omega introduces a new Snoopy Award Speedmaster. The Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award is the 45th anniversary limited edition of the Apollo XIII mission from 1970. Although we haven’t seen it in the flesh yet (Thursday morning, we will be first again), we are very excited to see what Omega made of this anniversary edition.
Although it is very different from the earlier Snoopy Award model, it is unmistakably a Speedmaster Professional. The 42mm stainless steel case now has a ceramic black tachymeter bezel though. The tachymeter scale has been applied with Super Luminova, so it will light up in the dark.




The dial of the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award is white and has a number of interesting things on there that needs a mention. Let’s start with the little sentence that starts at the 12 o’clock position: “What could you do in 14 seconds?”. The question is a nod to the 14-second mid-course correction that the Apollo 13 astronauts timed with their on-board back-up timing device: the OMEGA Speedmaster Professional chronograph.
Then there is Snoopy taking a little nap on the sub dial at 9 o’clock, NASA’s watchdog. In order to understand the relationship between Snoopy and NASA, you need to know that:
In 1968, NASA chose the famous beagle as an icon to act as a sort of “watchdog” over its missions. In the same year, NASA decided to use a sterling silver Snoopy pin as a sign of appreciation to NASA employees and contractors together with a commendation letter and a signed framed Snoopy certificate. Each of the sterling silver Snoopy lapel pins has been flown during a NASA mission.
Cartoonist Charles M. Schulz, who created the “Peanuts” comic strip (featuring Snoopy and Charlie Brown) was a supporter of the NASA Apollo missions and agreed to let them use “Snoopy the astronaut” at no cost and even drew the Snoopy figure for the sterling silver lapel pin.
NASA used the Snoopy award for special contributions and outstanding efforts from both NASA personnel and contractors. On October 5th, 1970, NASA gave the Omega Speedmaster a Snoopy award to acknowledge the crucial role the watch played during the Apollo 13 mission.
A little text balloon above Snoopy’s head tells us that “Failure is not an option”. These words were spoken by actor Ed Harris in his role as Apollo 13 Flight Director Gene Kranz in the 1995 movie about the Apollo 13 (featuring Tom Hanks and others).
A lot of text on the dial, but all with a reason and it doesn’t really disturb the dial in my humble opinion. However, it also might be my biased opinion towards the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy. On Thursday we will able to see and try this watch in the flesh and compare it to the existing Speedmaster Snoopy Award from 2003.
An important note is the luminosity of the dial (and tachymeter scale) of the new Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award. Even the sleeping Snoopy will light up in the dark, very impressive.





Now, just like its 2003 predecessor, the cool part of the watch is also on the back side. Where the former model had a sapphire case back with an enamel-like image of Snoopy on the case back (see below), the new Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award has a sterling silver Snoopy. The medallion is protected under sapphire and the applied 925 silver Snoopy on 925 silver plate filled with dark blue enamel with “925 silver pallions” representing the stars .



In the stainless steel case back you will also find the following wording: “SNOOPY AWARD”, “EYES ON THE STARS”, “45TH ANNIVERSARY”, “xxxx/1970″, “APOLLO XIII”. I guess this doesn’t need much explanation, but it also indicates of course that there will be only 1970 pieces available. The previous Snoopy Award had a whopping 5441 pieces and that one is already difficult to source in the pre-owned market these days. I expect that this new Omega Speedmaster Pro Silver Snoopy Award will run out as quickly as last year’s Apollo XI 45th Anniversary edition of the Moonwatch.



The Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award reference 311.32.42.30.04.003 comes on a nice black coated nylon fabric strap with white stitching and a folding clasp. Like all 42mm Speedmaster Professional watches, the lug size is 20mm. You can also add a stainless steel bracelet to this watch, or one of the new Omega NATO straps of course.
A special presentation box is used for the Silver Snoopy Award, including a certificate of authenticity and a 925 sterling silver Snoopy pin and a dedicated newspaper (Apollo XIII). There is no information available about the price for now, but probably somewhere between the list price of the regular Speedmaster Professional ‘Moonwatch’ and the Apollo XI 45th Anniversary Edition (was € 5850 Euro) I guess.







Love the Speedy Snoopy Edition! bravo.gif thumbsup.gif

Two thumbs up! Thumbsup3.gif

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 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2015 11:34 pm
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stew77
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Tudor has announced an "in-house" movement Pelagos (and added a new Blue version).

Absolutely love the "in-house" movement and Blue version offering in addition to the Black, but Tudor went absolutely crazy and unbalanced on the dial text with 5 lines of script on the lower dial. mistake.gif

Come on...a 3-line MAX script would work just fine on the lower dial (versus the 2-line text on the original), something like:

PELAGOS
Chronometer
500m-1640ft

(I will say for the record that the all-Titanium Pelagos is still on my wish list)thumbsup.gif

Attachment: x820x9999_TudorPelagosInHouse-8.jpg (Downloaded 40 times)

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 Posted: Thu Mar 19th, 2015 08:17 am
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bigrustypig
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oagaspar wrote:
the new Rolex Yachtmaster in Everosegold is awesome imo!ThumbsUp02.gifThumbsUp02.gif




The new YM is really many steps forward for the House of the Crown. This comes as a total and very pleasant surprise. Back here where I am, many forum members just love it. I think price would be north of US$18,000.00....worth it, for sure.

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 Posted: Thu Mar 19th, 2015 08:21 am
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bigrustypig
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stew77 wrote:
Tudor has announced an "in-house" movement Pelagos (and added a new Blue version).

Absolutely love the "in-house" movement and Blue version offering in addition to the Black, but Tudor went absolutely crazy and unbalanced on the dial text with 5 lines of script on the lower dial. mistake.gif

Come on...a 3-line MAX script would work just fine on the lower dial (versus the 2-line text on the original), something like:

PELAGOS
Chronometer
500m-1640ft

(I will say for the record that the all-Titanium Pelagos is still on my wish list)thumbsup.gif


This Pelagos is also cool but somehow I try to stay away from Ti. Yup, too much script on the dial. 2 lines too many.

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