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oagaspar Site Founder 
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Big Pre-BaselWorld 2015 Surprise! Oris Divers Sixty-Five   Posted by Michael Stockton on Mar 16, 2015Despite my affinity for vintage watches, this time of year is a bit like Christmas morning due to all the new releases to come at Baselworld. So, the bottom line is that, yes, I enjoy new watches as well. What I really enjoy, however, are new pieces that properly draw from a brand’s heritage. Certain manufacturers, such as Tudor, have exhibited a talent for introducing revised models based on their back catalog during the past several years. Other brands, which we won’t mention, have been less successful. Today, however, on Fratellowatches, we are excited to introduce an unexpected model that we think will be a great vintage-inspired success: the Oris Divers Sixty-Five. First, let’s review some light background on Oris. Oris is an interesting company: they only produce mechanical watches. They were founded in 1904 in Hoelstein, Switerland and remain private to this day. They are notable for having four lines of watches: Motor Sport, Aviation, Culture and Diving. Oris is also the sole supplier to the Williams-Martini Formula One team. Within the Culture line, Oris produces a reasonably well-known series of watches dedicated to famous historic jazz performers. While some of these watches are classically designed, you wouldn’t call them retro or vintage. No, the last time Oris really looked to their past was back in 2005 when a nod to their 1970’s Chronoris chronograph was introduced. So, needless to say, a vintage-inspired model is a surprise.  Oris has decided to base the Sixty-Five watch on a diving model from 50 years ago: yes, 1965. My only luck in finding something of this vintage was from a posting on the friendsoforis.com site by user “KennyWYL” from back in 2009. Interestingly, the original Oris used a manual wind movement, chrome plated brass case, contained an angled-bezel date window at 3:00, and contained a water resistance of 100m. It’s difficult to tell the diameter on the original 36mm, but Oris’ new release states that the Sixty-Five was upsized to fit modern tastes. All in all, it was a nice looking watch but not a standout. By the way, if anyone wishes to post pictures in the comments section of a vintage Oris more closely related to today’s release, we’d love to see them!  Returning to today, when I think about what makes a vintage-inspired watch successful, it’s all in the details. But before I subject you to a dose of opinion on these, let’s get down to brass tacks and give you the particulars of the Sixty-Five: Reference: 733 7707 4064, Oris Divers Sixty-Five Movement: Oris Cal. 733, based on Sellita SW200. Automatic with hand winding and date at 6:00 Case Diameter: 40mm, Stainless Steel Water Resistance: 10ATM, 100 Meters Bezel: Unidirectional with black aluminum inlay and Super Luminova filled zero marker Dial/Hands: Curved black with printed “Light old Radium” Super Luminova accents. Hands are nickel with Super Luminova accents. Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective interior coating Crown: Screw-in with “Oris” script Case back: Screw-down with vintage “Oris” logo Strap Options: Rubber “tropic style” with Oris pin buckle and available NATO with folding clasp. Price: 1,600 Euros So, now that we’ve listed the basics, let’s talk initial thoughts on this watch. I’m excited to hear what you, our readers, think but I am deeply impressed with what I see so far. When I’m on the Autobahn in mind-numbing traffic, daydreaming about what it would be like to design a vintage-inspired watch, I go through a checklist. In my opinion, Oris ticked about every box. First off, Oris’ choice of a 40mm case size is a masterstroke. Sure, some retro grouches will decry not using 38 or 39mm but 40mm is the sweet spot for dive watches: just ask the king who uses a crown as their company logo. I simply can’t stress enough that a brand could have also easily gone down the 42 or 44mm route and I think this would have ruined the concept; thanks, Oris, for resisting the temptation. A side view also shows a very thin profile: exactly like a 1960’s diver. Lug length also seems to be in check with early designs. Finally, a domed sapphire crystal is really a must on these types of watches and we’re rewarded with exactly that. It provides a certain warmth to the piece that an angled crystal simply cannot.  The little details are also apparent. Take a look at that subtle winding crown: pill-shaped, finely ridged, and subtly signed. Real thought went into this piece and I’m sure that setting the date, changing the time, and screwing it into the watch body will be a guilty pleasure for the owner. Speaking of date, this is an area where SO MANY watchmakers get it wrong. We’ve seen countless applications of the date window wrongly placed, wrongly sized, using an upsetting font, or, worse, using a white contrasting date wheel due to cost. I can easily forego a date function, but it doesn’t bother me at all on the Sixty-Five because it is nicely integrated into the inner chapter ring at 6:00, uses a non intrusive font and size, and thankfully has a dial-matching black background. Well done! When we come to the dial, this will be the area that takes the most heat as most WIS decry the use of anything with faux patina. Well, if the stock press photos are anything to go by, this flavor of Super Luminova looks to strike a balance between old and new. It’s not “baked” like other interpretations and it doesn’t look like an ill-fitting new dial in old-style surroundings. Regarding other dial details, I like the distortion that the crystal creates with the hour markers and am anxious to see their actual shapes in person. Other details on the dial that I like are the right balance of writing and the symmetrical balance. I’m actually fine with Oris’ choice to use their current logo as it bridges the piece to their current collection. The overall dial balance, of course, is aided by the date window position. Coming to the hands, Oris drew directly from the historic piece in recreating nicely proportioned hour and minute indicators. The sweep hand adds a nice lollipop pip just inside the inner chapter ring. Everything looks to be well weighted. Strap-wise, I really like that Oris chose a Tropic design. It fits the watch perfectly and the only other rubber straps that would look as appropriate are, conveniently, other Tropic designs such as the “big hole”. The NATO strap strikes me as a nod to current trends but looks good and I am interested to see the folding clasp. Again, though, I’d go with the Tropic based on photos. I’d also like to see a fine “beads of rice” bracelet but price-wise, this would probably be too much. Incidentally, we don’t know the lug width. Also, for you strap fans, note that the lugs are not cross-drilled. The convenience would have been nice, but it would not have been consistent with the ancestry.  Coming to some functional specs, I expect to hear some concerns about the 100 meter water resistance. While I would have hoped for something a little stronger, the 100 meters is in keeping its ancestor. Furthermore, 100 meters will likely cover the needs of most who will be wearing it. Movement wise, the Oris Caliber 733 is based on the Sellita SW200. This is the ETA 2824 clone and was likely chosen due to availability, cost and other factors. While I can’t comment on what Oris actually does to the as far as modifications, it’s a workhorse movement and competitive with other watches in this price range. Finally, we come to pricing. At 1600 Euros, I think that Oris has priced the Sixty-Five attractively, especially considering what has occurred with the Swiss Franc over the past several months. With some shrewd negotiation, it should become even more attractive. At the top of my head, I can picture a battle royale with the following pieces: the Longines Heritage Legend Diver (1780 Euro), the newly released Zodiac Sea Wolf ($995 and up), and the Tudor Black Bay (2500 Euro and up). So, we see that Oris has priced itself competitively in this slowly swelling field of competitors. All use either the ETA 2824 or a clone, are sized within 4mm of each other and capture the vintage diver theme quite well. We look forward to bringing you more detail on the great looking Oris Sixty-Five with some live pictures. For now, enjoy this pre-release. Baselworld 2015, here we come! More information on Oris on-line.      |
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stew77 Admin 
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Love the design and vibe of this one from ORIS, Oscar! My only complaint is the 10Atm (100m) water resistance rating...come on and at least make it 20Atm (200m). |
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bigrustypig 3T WIS 
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I have to agree with you, Chris. Ideally, WR should have something like a 200, not 100. The dial is also a great design with the added attraction of the distortion that absolutely makes the distorted numbers look back to the past. I think Dubey & Schaldenbrand had a similar execution on the 12,3, 6 and 9 markers but the model escapes me totally. I love this one from Oris although, tonight I saw an Aquis with a blue bezel and one more with a green bezel. Just like Bill's new arrival, the bracelets of the Aquis rocks. Very tempting, to say the least. Thanks for the good article, O. Last edited on Tue Mar 17th, 2015 09:49 am by bigrustypig |
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oagaspar Site Founder
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Speedy Tuesday article from January already, Omega introduces a new Snoopy Award Speedmaster. The Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award is the 45th anniversary limited edition of the Apollo XIII mission from 1970. Although we haven’t seen it in the flesh yet (Thursday morning, we will be first again), we are very excited to see what Omega made of this anniversary edition. Although it is very different from the earlier Snoopy Award model, it is unmistakably a Speedmaster Professional. The 42mm stainless steel case now has a ceramic black tachymeter bezel though. The tachymeter scale has been applied with Super Luminova, so it will light up in the dark.  The dial of the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award is white and has a number of interesting things on there that needs a mention. Let’s start with the little sentence that starts at the 12 o’clock position: “What could you do in 14 seconds?”. The question is a nod to the 14-second mid-course correction that the Apollo 13 astronauts timed with their on-board back-up timing device: the OMEGA Speedmaster Professional chronograph. Then there is Snoopy taking a little nap on the sub dial at 9 o’clock, NASA’s watchdog. In order to understand the relationship between Snoopy and NASA, you need to know that: In 1968, NASA chose the famous beagle as an icon to act as a sort of “watchdog” over its missions. In the same year, NASA decided to use a sterling silver Snoopy pin as a sign of appreciation to NASA employees and contractors together with a commendation letter and a signed framed Snoopy certificate. Each of the sterling silver Snoopy lapel pins has been flown during a NASA mission.A little text balloon above Snoopy’s head tells us that “Failure is not an option”. These words were spoken by actor Ed Harris in his role as Apollo 13 Flight Director Gene Kranz in the 1995 movie about the Apollo 13 (featuring Tom Hanks and others). A lot of text on the dial, but all with a reason and it doesn’t really disturb the dial in my humble opinion. However, it also might be my biased opinion towards the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy. On Thursday we will able to see and try this watch in the flesh and compare it to the existing Speedmaster Snoopy Award from 2003. An important note is the luminosity of the dial (and tachymeter scale) of the new Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award. Even the sleeping Snoopy will light up in the dark, very impressive.  Now, just like its 2003 predecessor, the cool part of the watch is also on the back side. Where the former model had a sapphire case back with an enamel-like image of Snoopy on the case back (see below), the new Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award has a sterling silver Snoopy. The medallion is protected under sapphire and the applied 925 silver Snoopy on 925 silver plate filled with dark blue enamel with “925 silver pallions” representing the stars .  In the stainless steel case back you will also find the following wording: “SNOOPY AWARD”, “EYES ON THE STARS”, “45TH ANNIVERSARY”, “xxxx/1970″, “APOLLO XIII”. I guess this doesn’t need much explanation, but it also indicates of course that there will be only 1970 pieces available. The previous Snoopy Award had a whopping 5441 pieces and that one is already difficult to source in the pre-owned market these days. I expect that this new Omega Speedmaster Pro Silver Snoopy Award will run out as quickly as last year’s Apollo XI 45th Anniversary edition of the Moonwatch.  The Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award reference 311.32.42.30.04.003 comes on a nice black coated nylon fabric strap with white stitching and a folding clasp. Like all 42mm Speedmaster Professional watches, the lug size is 20mm. You can also add a stainless steel bracelet to this watch, or one of the new Omega NATO straps of course. A special presentation box is used for the Silver Snoopy Award, including a certificate of authenticity and a 925 sterling silver Snoopy pin and a dedicated newspaper (Apollo XIII). There is no information available about the price for now, but probably somewhere between the list price of the regular Speedmaster Professional ‘Moonwatch’ and the Apollo XI 45th Anniversary Edition (was € 5850 Euro) I guess. |
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oagaspar Site Founder
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the new Rolex Yachtmaster in Everosegold is awesome imo! Attachment: yacht master basel 2015.jpg (Downloaded 41 times) |
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exc-hulk Moderator 
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I like the new Oris vintage diver a lot ! Cool piece. Only the size of only 40mm is a bit too small I think. 42mm would perfect. stew77 wrote: Love the design and vibe of this one from ORIS, Oscar! Chris, I think the depth rating is a tribute to the old dive watch from Oris in the pic above. I think the new Oris vintage diver is tested for more pressure. |
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stew77 Admin
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oagaspar wrote:the new Rolex Yachtmaster in Everosegold is awesome imo! Agree Oscar...absolutely awesome, and a real stunner!  Will definitely cost way more than I'm willing to spend, but just look at that unique Rolex rubber strap too! I know it's just a rubber strap, but there seems to be some interesting design elements to it that I'm going to have to look into just a bit more... A HOT one for sure! |
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stew77 Admin
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exc-hulk wrote:I like the new Oris vintage diver a lot ! Agree with you on the size Phil!...42mm would be absolutely perfect with this one, but it will likely still work and feed into that vintage vibe. I don't see anything from ORIS that would have me believe that they test this diver to more pressure than the 100m on the dial (and the caseback)...seems hard to believe that it is not capable of a true "diver" rating of 200m. I might just be willing to dive with this one and see how she does, even with the 100m rating. I don't go any deeper than 120 feet, and that's usually on accident...always try to keep things < 110 feet on the first dive anyway.  (I think I'm in need of a dive vacation!) |
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stew77 Admin
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oagaspar wrote:Speedy Tuesday article from January already, Omega introduces a new Snoopy Award Speedmaster. The Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award is the 45th anniversary limited edition of the Apollo XIII mission from 1970. Although we haven’t seen it in the flesh yet (Thursday morning, we will be first again), we are very excited to see what Omega made of this anniversary edition. Love the Speedy Snoopy Edition!  Two thumbs up!  |
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stew77 Admin
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Tudor has announced an "in-house" movement Pelagos (and added a new Blue version). Absolutely love the "in-house" movement and Blue version offering in addition to the Black, but Tudor went absolutely crazy and unbalanced on the dial text with 5 lines of script on the lower dial.  Come on...a 3-line MAX script would work just fine on the lower dial (versus the 2-line text on the original), something like: PELAGOS Chronometer 500m-1640ft (I will say for the record that the all-Titanium Pelagos is still on my wish list) Attachment: x820x9999_TudorPelagosInHouse-8.jpg (Downloaded 40 times) |
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bigrustypig 3T WIS
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oagaspar wrote:the new Rolex Yachtmaster in Everosegold is awesome imo! The new YM is really many steps forward for the House of the Crown. This comes as a total and very pleasant surprise. Back here where I am, many forum members just love it. I think price would be north of US$18,000.00....worth it, for sure. |
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bigrustypig 3T WIS
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stew77 wrote:Tudor has announced an "in-house" movement Pelagos (and added a new Blue version). This Pelagos is also cool but somehow I try to stay away from Ti. Yup, too much script on the dial. 2 lines too many. |
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bigrustypig 3T WIS
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What do you folks think about the new DD2 in 40? I just think this was a big let down for DD fans like me. At 41, the pre-2015 DD stood really tall and imposing. |
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oagaspar Site Founder
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Omega Globemaster Watches With Live Photos and Pricing Posted by Robert-Jan Broer on Mar 19, 2015On the press day of BaselWorld (just one day before the official opening), Omega introduced the first watch that will have the new Master Chronometer wording on the dial. We explained the Master Chronometer definition in this article yesterday Today, we had a closer look at the Omega Globemaster and I have to say that my enthusiasm of yesterday evening during the official launch event was still there when seeing the watch in a more ‘quiet’ environment. The 39mm Omega Globemaster collection will be part of the Constellation family, which makes perfect sense as the Globemaster had a close relationship in the 1950s with the Constellation watches. In a more in-depth article I will explain that relationship. First, let me introduce the Omega Globemaster watches to you.  Omega’s Globemaster comes in a few variations: stainless steel (leather and stainless steel bracelet), bi-color, full gold (yellow gold and Sedna gold) and a limited edition platinum piece. Omega was inspired by the double C case of the Constellation of the 1960s, which also had the fluted bezel. I noticed some criticism on the fluted bezel on social media and on our previous article on the launch event, that it reminds people of the Datejust. However, someone from Omega showed me some watches from much earlier dates than 1945 which also already had a fluted bezel. Despite the ‘resemblance’, there is little to compare to Rolex’ Datejust about this model. It is perhaps also a bit about what you want to see in a watch, to be honest. I respect both brands and own watches of both, and it doesn’t bother me. There is little you can do ‘different’ from what has been done already in the +100 years that wrist watches are around. In any case, the pie-pan dial is a huge deal for Omega fans. The Constellation pie-pan is probably one of the most sought-after vintage Omega watches and even though Omega tried to do something with it in their Constellation Sedna watch a while ago, it has a much nicer fit with the Globemaster in my opinion. The platinum Globemaster is the one I favour the most, mainly due to the beautiful platinum dial with blue enamel painted hour markers and the stunning (!) enamel medallion on the case back with the Constellation and 8 stars painted on there. The medallion reminds me of the first Omega Constellation pie-pan models with enamel dials (made by Stern). A very neat feature. The platinum Omega Globemaster comes in a beautiful presentation box and is limited to 352 pieces only. The stitching of the leather strap also uses a very small portion of platinum to get the right match with the watch case and dial. Price will be CHF 37.000 Swiss Francs, excluding VAT.    The 18 carat yellow gold and 18 carat Sedna gold Omega Globemaster watches come with a silver Opaline dial. The price of the gold Omega Globemaster models is set at CHF 18.000 Swiss Francs, excluding VAT. The bi-color Omega Globemaster has a beautiful blue dial and a bi-color bracelet. The price of this bi-color model is set at CHF 10.000 Swiss Francs, excluding VAT.     Now, the stainless steel Omega Globemaster model comes either with a silver opaline dial or with the blue dial. Also, Omega offers this model either with a stainless steel bracelet and a leather strap (with folding clasp). Prices for the stainless steel model start at CHF 6.300 Swiss Francs.   For all of these models, Omega uses the caliber 8xxx movements. The 8501 being the movement for the gold versions, with the gold rotor. The platinum edition with the enamel medallion uses caliber 8913. The Master Chronometer wording on the dial, will also be used in other product families, like the new line-up of Omega Seamaster PloProf 1200M. The Omega Globemaster is expected to be delivered to Omega boutiques starting November. More information can be found here, on Omega on-line. All photos can be clicked for larger versions.         |
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stew77 Admin
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bigrustypig wrote:What do you folks think about the new DD2 in 40? I just think this was a big let down for DD fans like me. At 41, the pre-2015 DD stood really tall and imposing. While the Day-Date is not really my thing (although I might be tempted by some of the previous DD2 versions), I agree with you Jeff...I don't really get the slight downsizing of the case size from the 41mm of the DD2, to this new DD40. [Although, we seem to be seeing a number of makers return to the "smaller" sizes of their historical base...hmmm...are we seeing a real trend here? Seems like we are even seeing a number of new offerings in the 39mm size.] The DD40 seems to be all about the new laser cut dials (which look very ornate and cool for a dressy piece), and then that new 3255 calibre, which has been heavily redesigned and modified. My wife would likely love this light blue dial version, and at 40mm on her wrist would make a heck of a statement (she has been known to wear my 42mm Anonimos when she wants to wear something big). Attachment: Rolex-Day-Date-40-Caliber-3255.jpg (Downloaded 25 times) |
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stew77 Admin
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Omega has brought back the Broad Arrow hour hand with the Baselworld 2015 announced Speedmaster '57 Co-Axial, a tribute to the original Pre-Moon-Watch-Speedmaster.   |
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stew77 Admin
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Hey Jeff, while some makers are going back to their smaller historical case sizes, Zenith has chosen to upsize their El Primero Sport for 2015. At 45mm, and with this case design, you are going to have a huge amount of wrist presence with this one!    |
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stew77 Admin
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Completely out of my price range (anyone have a spare $42K they want to donate to the watch fund?), but Patek Phillipe introduced the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time at BaselWorld 2015. Case size is 42mm, rendered in polished white gold. The Pilot design is not something I would expect to see from Patek, but I like it! This long established premier brand in watchmaking continues to surprise me lately. One can dream...    |
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bigrustypig 3T WIS
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Sharp inputs, Chris, and thanks. I usually am averse to new calibers so I guess time will tell how this one goes. I just feel that the DD deserves to be big, grand and majestic at 41 and fully wrapped in steel. The new DD40 appears to really be small and worse, glass is used for a caseback...glass??!! I really don't know what thought process went into this at Rolex. But i don't like what they did. Again, that's just me. I will really hunt down a 41. |
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stew77 Admin
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bigrustypig wrote:Sharp inputs, Chris, and thanks. I usually am averse to new calibers so I guess time will tell how this one goes. I agree with you on the proportions Jeff. The 41mm DD definitely has a much more 'grand' wrist presence due to the overall proportions. I haven't yet seen the glass caseback that you've seen for the DD40. Everything I've seen shows a solid caseback.     |
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stew77 Admin
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Interesting to see Omega offering a 2015 update of the legendary Seamaster Ploprof at BaselWorld 2015! It has only been since 2007 that Omega released the last Seamaster Ploprof 1200m based on the ultra-cool vintage diver from the 70's. Significant differences with the 2015 model: *Co-Axial Chronometer movement very similar to the 8500 movement used in the 2007 version, but contains additional anti-magnetic protection. *The New version is also No-Date, for a very clean dial layout. *The most significant difference is that the new 2015 Ploprof is cased in Titanium with Ceramic Bezel inserts (versus the 2007 model cased in SS with Sapphire Bezel inserts). Should wear amazingly light on the wrist, (although the SS version is very comfortable especially when combined with a rubber dive strap IMO). Several very cool color combinations being offered IMO.       |
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bigrustypig 3T WIS
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Heck, Chris! Those PloProfs look smart! Colors. Colors. Colors. |
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exc-hulk Moderator
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stew77 wrote: Interesting to see Omega offering a 2015 update of the legendary Seamaster Ploprof at BaselWorld 2015! It has only been since 2007 that Omega released the last Seamaster Ploprof 1200m based on the ultra-cool vintage diver from the 70's. WoW ! These various Ploprofs looks amazing. + - no date - various new dial colors - anti magnetic protection - - titanium case - exhibition caseback - price I prefer an no date dial. So it is a very good decision for a no date dial. But I am not a fan of an titanium case. I prefer stainless steel and a massive case back. And Chris, that dial version looks absolutely gorgeous. Last edited on Sat Mar 21st, 2015 11:43 am by exc-hulk |
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stew77 Admin
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Agreed Jeff and Phil! These Ploprofs are stunning! I agree with your PRO/CON list Phil! Although I could probably forgive the Ti case and display back since that movement is so nice to look at (but I do prefer the solidity/heft of a SS case with this design). The price definitely makes me say ouch!I thought you might like that grey dial version Phil. Here's another closer view of that dial combo:  |
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exc-hulk Moderator
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stew77 wrote: Agreed Jeff and Phil! These Ploprofs are stunning! Holy, what a dial ! The dial looks so crisp with a silver glitter. Amazing...  |
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stew77 Admin
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exc-hulk wrote:stew77 wrote:Agreed Jeff and Phil! These Ploprofs are stunning! Agree Phil! Awesome dial...reminds me very much of the stunning Rhodium Dial option on the Stowa Prodiver! |
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exc-hulk Moderator
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stew77 wrote: exc-hulk wrote: Right, good comparison Chris ! Looks like the Stowa rhodium dial. I think the Ploprof with black hands on this dial would look great. Last edited on Sat Mar 21st, 2015 01:05 pm by exc-hulk |
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oagaspar Site Founder
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Baselworld 2015: The New Seiko Marinemaster  Posted by Michael Stockton on Mar 20, 2015As an admitted Seiko nut, I’ve always had a hard time with the brand’s release strategy at Baselworld. Sure, they release the new Grand Seiko pieces and cover the Astron line, but hardcore devotees of the brand are usually left wanting when it comes to the sports-related pieces: especially Prospex. Well, I am here to tell you that while Seiko did not bring everything Prospex-related to Basel, they are taking steps forward to offer a more global product line. Recently, participants in Seiko forums have seen grainy catalog pictures showing a variety of new professional pieces and while we won’t get all of these globally, we will see some. Also, stay tuned as Fratellowatches will fill in more details over the coming days regarding Seiko’s new releases, but today, I will briefly cover 2 of the more highly awaited pieces from the Seiko Marinemaster line. First, I’ll share a few words on my experience with Seiko at Basel. I attended the Seiko press conference, which featured the leads for each major product line as well as Hattori-san, Seiko’s CEO. The press conference was brief, to the point, and most interestingly, humorous. A lot of fantastic jokes were made during the presentation and the leader for the Prospex line even inhaled helium from a balloon to help illustrate the reason for not using helium valves on their Prospex line of watches. He was very clear that Seiko simply does not wish to allow any helium into their watches. It was funny, lighthearted and, to me, shows that Seiko is finally wishing to appeal to a larger audience with its marketing strategy. Now, let’s talk about the watches.  Seiko Marinemaster Professional 1,000m Diver’s Hi-Beat Limited Edition: SBEX001 Seiko made reference to the fact that 2015 is the 50th anniversary of its first professional diver’s watch, the 62MAS and in true Seiko fashion, they’ve rolled out a limited edition model. The piece, which is named above, carries the catalog number of SBEX001. It’s a 48.2mm diameter, 19.7mm thick titanium cased monobloc model on bracelet, which is also delivered with a silicone strap. The watch is equipped with a new 36,000 bph, 37-jewel 8L55 automatic movement with 55 hours of power reserve and is assembled in Seiko’s Shizuku-ishi Watch studio, which also builds movements for Grand Seiko. An anti-reflective sapphire crystal comes with the watch as well. The watch is water resistant to 1,000 meters and will be made in a limited edition of 700 pieces. Inspiration, by the way, is taken from the high-beat 6159 diver of 1968. Pricing will be approximately 6400 Euros.  My thoughts: I have to admit that I was skeptical when I first started to see bad scanned photos of this watch within forums. I was concerned about the odd Allen screws on the bracelet and the overall size of the watch. However, I can tell you that the Allen screws aren’t intrusive in person and that’s likely because the physical mass of this watch “drowns out” the effect of these screws. By the way, I think that’s a good thing. The size of the case is also a bit intimidating and while I would have liked smaller, it hugs the wrist nicely and fits better than its size would suggest. Plus, the watch should look great on the provided strap. Regarding the dial and bezel, the quality is sublime: it should be for the price. Dial details are perfectly carried out as one would expect and not unlike the quality of the limited edition Spring Drive Tuna that I own. The other great news is that this movement is a debut for Seiko and was specially created as a high-beat and to withstand the rigors of diving. The watch impressed me, and while it is likely too large for my small wrists, it will look good on anyone of average size. I am interested to see where this case and movement will next appear.  Seiko Marinemaster Professional 1000m Diver’s Now, we move on to my favorite series of Prospex watches, the Seiko Marinemaster “Tunas”. Sadly, it looks like many of the rumored new Tunas will exist solely as JDM pieces but one will be released globally. This new Tuna is coded as the SBDX014. The watch is essentially the same as today’s “Emperor Tuna” SBDX011, which uses titanium for the case, but ushers in some notable changes. The watch retains the Emperor’s 8L35 caliber, automatic movement which beats at 28,800 bph. Diameter also remains at 48.2mm with a thickness of 17.4mm. Water resistance remains at 1,000 meters. Changes come in with a crown marked with the “X” Prospex symbol and the shroud, instead of titanium, is now made of ceramic. Intriguely, this Tuna uses a titanium case but it rose gold coated. A silicone strap is provided. New lumibrite is used which glows 60% longer than in the past. Pricing is expected to be 3450 Euros.  My thoughts: Like the first watch we spoke about, the forums were awash with concern over various details. On this piece, the worries stemmed from the hands and also the general color scheme of the watch. Unlike the prior gold tunas, this piece uses rose gold as a coating and I can tell you that it is stunning. I really liked the color in person and it’s more alluring and “warm” looking versus the pure black of the Emperor. The hands also did not put me off at all; they look modern and clean. Perhaps the gold Spring Drive Tuna (SBDB008) indoctrinated me to the use of this style of hands but I really like it on this watch. I hope the pictures I’ve taken give you a better feel than the stock photos. I should also mention that the new ceramic shrouds are extremely smooth and attractive. Finally, I’m also glad that Seiko chose to apply the Prospex symbol to the crown versus the dial. I am still not completely sold on the Prospex symbol but I can live with it in a place that is essentially out of view. Overall, I really liked this watch and would consider adding one to my collection.  Conclusions In summary, I was impressed by the 2 new Marinemasters that Seiko brought to Baselworld. Of course, I’d like to see an even more global product offering but I consider this a step in the right direction. Incidentally, I did ask Seiko representatives if this means the end for the beloved Emperor and Darth Tuna models but unfortunately no information was given. If I were a betting man (I’m not), I’d guess that they are not long for this world as they use older handsets, older lumibrite and different shrouds. Furthermore, they also lack the presence of the new Prospex symbol. So, the bottom line is, if you’re not sold on the new Tunas, and want to be an existing model new, you may want to consider making a move. In the meantime, let us know what you think about the 2 new heavy-duty Prospex models in the comments below!             |
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bigrustypig 3T WIS
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I stick to the traditional Emperor Tuna and all its imperial blackness. I also prefer the date at 3, versus the off-balanced 430 setting. Gold on black? Hmmmm... Big no for me. |
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