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| valuation question | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 01:33 pm |
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1st Post |
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YARGH 3T WIS
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What is an appropriate discount off the current new price (the price you actually pay from an authorized dealer, not the "suggested retail price") to offer for a watch that is around 90% cosmetically, but has no box or papers, the current owner is not the orignal owner (and doesn't know who was); the current owner has not serviced the watch (and doesn't know if it ever has been), and does not know in what year the watch was originally purchased (it's between 3 and 8 years old). The strap is leather, used, and appears to be the original one. Assume that the watch isn't high-end enough to warrant any suspicion of fakery or frankenry but no explicit guarantees are being made in this regard, either, because the current owner is not an expert. Looks fine in the photos, though. I was thinking 60% off (which would be between 35% and 50% of the new price of the actual watch, depending on when it was bought). Is that lowballing? Is it not low enough? Thoughts? Last edited on Fri May 16th, 2008 01:33 pm by YARGH |
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 01:39 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Paxman 3T WIS 
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I think if you share specifically what make and model you are looking at, someone might give you a good idea of what the true street value is...
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 01:46 pm |
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3rd Post |
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YARGH 3T WIS
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"I think if you share specifically what make and model you are looking at, someone might give you a good idea of what the true street value is..." I'd rather not -- it might belong to someone in here, and/or people in here might be competing for it. If not knowing the make and model makes this question too tough to answer, that's OK; I was just looking for some general valuation pointers anyway. Basically, this is something I've been kind of wanting and have not seen used lately, but I am a bit worried about committing much money to it, given all of the unknowns.
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 01:51 pm |
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4th Post |
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hucky 3T WIS 
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I dont think anybody would be offended here? I wouldnt, Its just part of the Hunt is all.  Cheers
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 01:59 pm |
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5th Post |
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Skipdawg 3T WIS 
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If concerned about the owner being here or competition just PM me and I'll give ya my best guesstimate. I ain't selling nothing at all and not chasing anymore watches for at least a week. ;) With 5 incoming watches i am good for right now. LOL :D
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 02:18 pm |
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6th Post |
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oagaspar Site Founder 
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most all WIS I have dealt with or adds I have read on sales forums have a very good idea of value and worth so if you are saying you want to offer 60% less of what they are asking you may very well be out of line...as far as anyone selling on this forum I would say they are right on and in good standing as WIS because of our astringent rules in that area...but there is always that WIS who believes what they have is rare and worth morehand6.gif and as Pax says without knowing the make of watch you are referring to your question has no relevance at all and any help in answering your question would be futile imho:?
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 02:29 pm |
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7th Post |
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YARGH 3T WIS
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oagaspar wrote: most all WIS I have dealt with or adds I have read on sales forums have a very good idea of value and worth so if you are saying you want to offer 60% less of what they are asking you may very well be out of line...as far as anyone selling on this forum I would say they are right on and in good standing as WIS because of our astringent rules in that areahand6.gif I'm not talking about making an offer 60% below what the seller is asking; I'm talking about 60% off the new price. FWIW, the seller is asking about 50% off the new price. I have no idea how much he paid for it (says he got it a month or two ago) but I don't consider that to be important at my end. Anyway, if I haven't provided enough information for this question to be relevant, I understand. I'm still relatively new at this and trying to feel my way forward while not getting too burned in the process. Thanks for your patience.
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 02:55 pm |
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8th Post |
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Paxman 3T WIS
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Worst case scenario... you make your offer and they don't accept it. Bottom line is going to be what YOU are willing to pay for THAT watch and what THEY are willing to let it go for...
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 03:40 pm |
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9th Post |
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oagaspar Site Founder
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it would seem you have trust issues as far as the watch and the members of this forum who are genuinely here to help you....by naming the brand without any other specifics will work in aiding your quest...I doubt anyone is looking to snag the watch away from you;)....in fact if it was a deal and worthwhile one of us would already have snagged it up my friend:D We all win some and moreso lose some...that needle in the haystack is far and few between even for the most seasoned collectorshand6.gif
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 03:53 pm |
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10th Post |
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YARGH 3T WIS
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oagaspar wrote: it would seem you have trust issues as far as the watch and the members of this forum who are genuinely here to help you....by naming the brand without any other specifics will work in aiding your quest...I doubt anyone is looking to snag the watch away from you;)....in fact if it was a deal and worthwhile one of us would already have snagged it up my friend:D We all win some and moreso lose some...that needle in the haystack is far and few between even for the most seasoned collectorshand6.gif This is starting to get too far afield from what my original intent was for the post. While I am interested in the specifics of my current situation, I am much more interested in any general 2nd-hand watch-buying principles that can be applied here; specifically, I'm assuming that a lack of box, lack of papers, lack of servicing information, lack of chain of ownership, and lack of year of make are factors that will devalue a 2nd-hand offering that is less than 8 years old. The question is whether this matters a lot, or doesn't matter all that much. I was just hoping for some insight, as I anticipate being in the market for 2nd-hand watches quite a bit over the next year and I'm sure I'll run into one of more of these factors again in due course. And, obviously, if I'm ever a seller, I'd like to know if having all of these things at my disposal will enhance the attractiveness of my own pieces, or if they aren't all that important.
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 04:07 pm |
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11th Post |
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oagaspar Site Founder
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again it all depends on the watch....make,model etc...as this is different from brand to brand:) a higher end watch would be something I would want the box and papers and if they weren't available I would be looking to pay much less although this isn't always the case....a Rolex 5517 recently sold for $70,000. no box or papers but nonetheless extremely rare and valuable,whereas a lower end watch wouldn't really matter as for example many of us buy Seikos NIB from overseas without a box and papers at a much greater discount and trade that way on sales forums. What I am trying to get across to you is knowing watches should be your top priority and learning to research the various brands that interest you so you have a better idea of what the worth of that watch may be before entering into purchasing from the secondary market or any market for that matter.this thread could have ended in 1 reply if you would have just came out and said "hey this is the watch I am looking to buy and is it a good deal"many have asked that question on 3T and received concise answers that helped in the purchase or direction to take:D
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| Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 04:56 pm |
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12th Post |
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Tony Duronio 3T WIS 
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Maybe this is the simple answer you are looking for. Why not take the make and model and plug it into the search sections of the various sales forums. Unless it is a very and I mean very rare model, you should get a few responses. Study the ad as written and the priced asked, though you will not really know what was payed at least you have a basis to make a decision. There are no fast and safe rules to use as far as value for the secondary market, but there is always enough info. to make a wise decision. Seems simple enough. BTW, you can even use e-bay as a source or google.
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