View single post by pacifichrono | |||||||||||||
Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 03:59 am |
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pacifichrono![]()
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hucky wrote: Tom First off, I'm a real putz when it comes to doing anything with digital photos other than the basics. With that in mind, I "drew" an skinny blue arrow below pointing to the regulator lever that controls the watch's timing. DO NOT MISTAKE THE FATTER LEVER FOR THE REGULATOR LEVER! If you move it by mistake, your watch will run way, way fast or slow. To adjust the timing of your watch, use a non-metallic device (I use a plastic or wooden toothpick) to VERY gently push the regulator lever one direction or the other. At the other end of the regulator you will see a small pointer positioned between a plus ("+") and a minus ("-"). Pushing the regulator lever in the direction that will move the pointer toward the plus sign will speed it up, and vice versa. Some watches say "F" and "S" (for "fast" and "slow") or they will say "A" and "R" for "advance" or "retard" (like setting the distributor timing on an older car). In the photo below, moving the regulator lever CLOCKWISE will speed it up. You only need to move the regulator lever a tiny amount, almost imperceptible, to result in a change of 10 or 20 seconds per day. Thus, you will find this to be an iterative process...maybe even 6-8 iterations (or more) to get your watch within your acceptable range of accuracy. After "adjusting" the regulator lever, replace the caseback cover and tighten it only enough to keep it from loosening during the day. Again, I use a toothpick to manually push the slots in the caseback to rotate it to a snug position that I can later undo using the toothpick again. This way you don't subject the caseback to repeated wrench use and the likelihood of scratching the caseback. After installing the caseback only snugly, set your watch's time using time.gov and monitor its accuracy for at least four hours before attempting the next iteration. Wear the watch or put it on a winder during these iterations. It will probably take at least a few back and forth adjustments to get it close. After the final iteration, make sure you TIGHTEN THE CASEBACK WITH THE WRENCH. One thing I do when "working" on a watch is I always wear the strongest pair of reading glasses I can buy at the drug store (like a 3.00). These are great for really close up work on tiny mechanisms. Of course, you can buy a jeweler's loupe, but the cost is higher. When using a caseback wrench on my watches, I always cover the back with a plastic "baggie" (two plies) to reduce the risk of scratches. You can still see through the baggie and it's thin enough to not interfere with the wrench. Good luck Huck! ![]() Last edited on Sun Aug 17th, 2008 04:05 am by pacifichrono |
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