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YARGH 3T WIS
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What is an appropriate discount off the current new price (the price you actually pay from an authorized dealer, not the "suggested retail price") to offer for a watch that is around 90% cosmetically, but has no box or papers, the current owner is not the orignal owner (and doesn't know who was); the current owner has not serviced the watch (and doesn't know if it ever has been), and does not know in what year the watch was originally purchased (it's between 3 and 8 years old). The strap is leather, used, and appears to be the original one. Assume that the watch isn't high-end enough to warrant any suspicion of fakery or frankenry but no explicit guarantees are being made in this regard, either, because the current owner is not an expert. Looks fine in the photos, though. I was thinking 60% off (which would be between 35% and 50% of the new price of the actual watch, depending on when it was bought). Is that lowballing? Is it not low enough? Thoughts? Last edited on Fri May 16th, 2008 01:33 pm by YARGH |
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Paxman 3T WIS 
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I think if you share specifically what make and model you are looking at, someone might give you a good idea of what the true street value is... |
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YARGH 3T WIS
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"I think if you share specifically what make and model you are looking at, someone might give you a good idea of what the true street value is..." I'd rather not -- it might belong to someone in here, and/or people in here might be competing for it. If not knowing the make and model makes this question too tough to answer, that's OK; I was just looking for some general valuation pointers anyway. Basically, this is something I've been kind of wanting and have not seen used lately, but I am a bit worried about committing much money to it, given all of the unknowns. |
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hucky 3T WIS 
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I dont think anybody would be offended here? I wouldnt, Its just part of the Hunt is all.  Cheers |
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Skipdawg 3T WIS 
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If concerned about the owner being here or competition just PM me and I'll give ya my best guesstimate. I ain't selling nothing at all and not chasing anymore watches for at least a week. ;) With 5 incoming watches i am good for right now. LOL :D |
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oagaspar Site Founder 
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most all WIS I have dealt with or adds I have read on sales forums have a very good idea of value and worth so if you are saying you want to offer 60% less of what they are asking you may very well be out of line...as far as anyone selling on this forum I would say they are right on and in good standing as WIS because of our astringent rules in that area...but there is always that WIS who believes what they have is rare and worth morehand6.gif and as Pax says without knowing the make of watch you are referring to your question has no relevance at all and any help in answering your question would be futile imho:? |
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YARGH 3T WIS
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oagaspar wrote: most all WIS I have dealt with or adds I have read on sales forums have a very good idea of value and worth so if you are saying you want to offer 60% less of what they are asking you may very well be out of line...as far as anyone selling on this forum I would say they are right on and in good standing as WIS because of our astringent rules in that areahand6.gif I'm not talking about making an offer 60% below what the seller is asking; I'm talking about 60% off the new price. FWIW, the seller is asking about 50% off the new price. I have no idea how much he paid for it (says he got it a month or two ago) but I don't consider that to be important at my end. Anyway, if I haven't provided enough information for this question to be relevant, I understand. I'm still relatively new at this and trying to feel my way forward while not getting too burned in the process. Thanks for your patience. |
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Paxman 3T WIS
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Worst case scenario... you make your offer and they don't accept it. Bottom line is going to be what YOU are willing to pay for THAT watch and what THEY are willing to let it go for... |
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oagaspar Site Founder
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it would seem you have trust issues as far as the watch and the members of this forum who are genuinely here to help you....by naming the brand without any other specifics will work in aiding your quest...I doubt anyone is looking to snag the watch away from you;)....in fact if it was a deal and worthwhile one of us would already have snagged it up my friend:D We all win some and moreso lose some...that needle in the haystack is far and few between even for the most seasoned collectorshand6.gif |
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YARGH 3T WIS
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oagaspar wrote: it would seem you have trust issues as far as the watch and the members of this forum who are genuinely here to help you....by naming the brand without any other specifics will work in aiding your quest...I doubt anyone is looking to snag the watch away from you;)....in fact if it was a deal and worthwhile one of us would already have snagged it up my friend:D We all win some and moreso lose some...that needle in the haystack is far and few between even for the most seasoned collectorshand6.gif This is starting to get too far afield from what my original intent was for the post. While I am interested in the specifics of my current situation, I am much more interested in any general 2nd-hand watch-buying principles that can be applied here; specifically, I'm assuming that a lack of box, lack of papers, lack of servicing information, lack of chain of ownership, and lack of year of make are factors that will devalue a 2nd-hand offering that is less than 8 years old. The question is whether this matters a lot, or doesn't matter all that much. I was just hoping for some insight, as I anticipate being in the market for 2nd-hand watches quite a bit over the next year and I'm sure I'll run into one of more of these factors again in due course. And, obviously, if I'm ever a seller, I'd like to know if having all of these things at my disposal will enhance the attractiveness of my own pieces, or if they aren't all that important. |
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oagaspar Site Founder
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again it all depends on the watch....make,model etc...as this is different from brand to brand:) a higher end watch would be something I would want the box and papers and if they weren't available I would be looking to pay much less although this isn't always the case....a Rolex 5517 recently sold for $70,000. no box or papers but nonetheless extremely rare and valuable,whereas a lower end watch wouldn't really matter as for example many of us buy Seikos NIB from overseas without a box and papers at a much greater discount and trade that way on sales forums. What I am trying to get across to you is knowing watches should be your top priority and learning to research the various brands that interest you so you have a better idea of what the worth of that watch may be before entering into purchasing from the secondary market or any market for that matter.this thread could have ended in 1 reply if you would have just came out and said "hey this is the watch I am looking to buy and is it a good deal"many have asked that question on 3T and received concise answers that helped in the purchase or direction to take:D |
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Tony Duronio 3T WIS 
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Maybe this is the simple answer you are looking for. Why not take the make and model and plug it into the search sections of the various sales forums. Unless it is a very and I mean very rare model, you should get a few responses. Study the ad as written and the priced asked, though you will not really know what was payed at least you have a basis to make a decision. There are no fast and safe rules to use as far as value for the secondary market, but there is always enough info. to make a wise decision. Seems simple enough. BTW, you can even use e-bay as a source or google. |
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Skipdawg 3T WIS
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Hay guys I think I have the bases covered here and it is very understandable for him to be cautious. As he stated he is new and dose not know us yet. ;) |
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IanM 3T WIS 
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Hiya Yargh and all I missed this post earlier - sorry for bringing it up again. Seems to me that there is good help available if Yargh has the confidence to ask for it. It seems as if he has just started collecting older watches (JMHO, and I could be wrong). I have no issue with caution - and one more voice in the wilderness from far away Australia is there to let Yargh know that a finer bunch of WIS gentlemen does not exist, and that all the hoo-ha he might have experienced elsewhere doesn't happen here. I buy from ebay, friends, enemies, ADs, watch-related sales forums, and from whatever source I can find. There is no hard and fast rule about discounts for watches with or without papers. Models sometimes are in vogue one day, and between 3 and 8 years later they are worthless, worth less, or worth a fortune. I wish Yargh well in his search - but I also hope that he understands that there are countless hours of research, bidding, losing, winning, waiting, forum-watching and assessments of price over time that we have all done, and which give us the confidence to either buy new or vintage for what we consider to be a fair price. Knowing that - I hope that he gains the confidence to ask a simple direct question to get a simple direct answer. Nobody is singling Yargh out - it is just that the question would have had more relevance if there was SOME information to go on. Go for it Yargh - the guys here are incredibly knowledgable and helpful. Just ask! And if you PM anyone - make us promise not to tell! Cautious or not - I have no doubt that you are welcomed here with open arms - and I hope you enjoy your time here as much as I do. It is a blast. IanM  |
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Ablejack 3T WIS 
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Since I'm rich and greedy, I'm buying it from under Yargh!  /jk |
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Skipdawg 3T WIS
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Ablejack wrote: Since I'm rich and greedy, I'm buying it from under Yargh! goofy  |
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hucky 3T WIS
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In every Hobby there is a price to pay for learning, If the watch speaks to you and you feel you can afford it, jump in. If I see a watch I like but dont know fair price, I type the name of it in google and then I search to see the specs and retail prices. Your gonna over pay for a few items its just part of the process, your gonna buy watches in one direction and then your tastes will change and your gonna go in another direction, part of the DISEASE  Happy Hunting |
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TimShultz 3T WIS 
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And such a wonderful disease it is! LOL....He is in good hands with SkipDawg!hand6.gif |
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Skipdawg 3T WIS
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TimShultz wrote: And such a wonderful disease it is! LOL....He is in good hands with SkipDawg!hand6.gif Thanks very much for the most kind words Tim. ;) |
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mcwright Admin 
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Tony has the best advice for you. Do some research on your computer via Yahoo or google. Search for Used XXX model brand watch. You can search on ebay for models sold within say the last month, etc. Having a box is nice to have for most any watch. Papers are more important for more valuable and/or more collectable brands. The papers help authenticate the watch. They don't guarantee anything, but they help. A receipt is even better for something such as a Rolex. Bear in mind an AD (Retailer) might get many watches from non-WIS, non-collector types. They don't tend to keep boxes and papers, but still will have a decent watch, etc. Last edited on Tue May 20th, 2008 03:39 am by mcwright |
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woo sau 3T WIS
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Oh, totaly model dependant, a tudor 79190 for eg was less $ new retail mid 90's than its used value now, though a similar aged 90's used explorer is below new retail. Likewise a rarer vintage model is prized higher. Generally on newer common watches like seiko divers and eta 2824 offerings the tz rating is what i would expect mine to recover in cost, an 85% monster i would sell for 85% of its retail. V dif to say without model info, papers and box can be irrelevant if its the model you want and you know your stuff. I have seen alot of ltd editions such as dox 600's and 750's and mkii's go for slightly above original retail because of price increases waiting lists and scarcity, eg the prs dreadnought for 200% more on used market. wheel and deeel see how you feeel! Older www's can be had for under $200 but fetch over $400 on ebay, i missed an eterna kontiki last year for $500 and the last similar one i saw was over $1000. A few old blancpain's and other older classic watches of good provinence and well sought after have been sold on forum's for alot less than market value because people like to deal within their online friends and collecting community, i allways offer on a forum before ebay as its less hassle, usually. good luck and most importantly make sure the pay and post bit is secure to the max. Last edited on Tue May 20th, 2008 06:59 am by woo sau |
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