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| Spring Bars? | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 06:08 am |
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1st Post |
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Wozza 3T WIS 
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After reading all the post about removing the Moray lug bars. I took all the advice and was very careful. First one came out no problem but second one just snapped straight off. Any thoughts about using spring bars on the next watch ?. Everything else on the Moray is perfect.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 06:31 am |
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2nd Post |
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Parabola 3T WIS 
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I had exactly the same problem. The lug bar head twisted clean off the head and left the rest of the bar stuck between the lugs. My local watch maker says that he can fix it if Ralf/Steve send replacement bars. Quite irritated really, cos I want to flip it to get a Sinn and can't in its current state.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 10:52 am |
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3rd Post |
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Steve Laughlin 3T WIS 
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guys, the factory applied loc-tite to the screws, I have replacement bars, just email me and ask. sl@benarus.com The factory thinks it is a quality thing to do to add the loc-tite so your screws don't come off, they didn't know that many people would be removing the bracelet.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 11:04 am |
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4th Post |
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Nabco 3T WIS 
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Absolutely stay with the screws....I'm confident Ralf and Steve will fix the issue with the Mega!!
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 11:10 am |
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5th Post |
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Skipdawg 3T WIS 
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Yea just let folks know ahead of time that they need to warm the lugs before removal. ;)
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 11:18 am |
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6th Post |
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Steve Laughlin 3T WIS
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we will instruct them not to use the loc-tite next time, it isn't necessary also we are looking into alternatives to flat head screws, but nothing official yet. but we will continue to learn the best solutions and use them.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 06:00 pm |
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7th Post |
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Janner 3T WIS 
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Soak the lugs in hot water and then then use proper screwdrivers. That worked for me.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2009 11:34 am |
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8th Post |
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lam1611 3T WIS 
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I do have to concur here: I LOVE my two Morays, but the bar issue is a real problem, and it was a really bad idea to have them stuck solid in the factory. Spring bars, of the thick and sturdy Pam style, would (will? I hope) be a much much better solution. A word on my predicament: I got my two MOrays 10 days ago, and it was love at first sight. First thing I wanted to do was take off the bracelets - I am a strap man, and having built about 50 myself, I couldn't wait to try some on. Well, on the Seafoam Blue #15, the screws were dangerously tight, but got unscrewed after much careful efforts. Taking the bars themselves off, as was recounted by several, was even harder: Even using the right Bergeon tool and WD40, I hard to do much more than tap, i.e. really knock to get them out, at the risk of bending them. Off they came, with a minimum of scratches. On the Stealth #16, the first screw unscrewed like a dream - lucky me! But for the fourth and final screw… Here, I believe that some comment is needed. Reading the forum answers to the poor guys "stuck" like me, you get the feeling that these poor souls are doing it wrong ("just use hot water, WD40, a hair dryer, the right tools…"). Well, guys, I can tell you I tried all of them, and this is not exactly the first bracelet I change (again, I built about 50 straps, so I litterally play with screw bars, spring bars, Pam bars… daily). The only result I got, after 10 days of trying every method with extreme care was, like what happened to two other forum members, that the screw head snapped off. So, some conclusions: - If your bar is stuck, it's just bad luck, and this is pure lottery, but it's STUCK I don't believe it's about doing it wrong, it's about drawing the wrong number - if the screw head snapped, this means that no amount of torque of probing could have unscrewed it: the weakest part went first - the loctite was a bad bad idea : Who thought of that?!! WHY ?!! I have yet to hear of a Pam screw coming unscrewed! - these beautiful watches and the wealth of strap options generously provided (Thanks, Ralf) scream for SPRING BARS: It's a much faster, simpler way of changing straps (no scratching risk), and in my experience just as strong. Seiko divers, for instance, which are a reference in sturdiness, use spring bars. Pam replacement spring bars work just as fine What's next? Well, now I have to ask my watchmaker friend to try and take off the broken bar (drill? it will be a pain in any case). Then I have to ask Ralf for replacement PVD bars - or, even better, if he could provide the unlucky ones like me with PDV spring bars Don't get me wrong: My Moray (the one not broken!) has not left my wrist since I got it. I LOVE this thing. But these bars…
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2009 12:32 pm |
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9th Post |
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Steve Laughlin 3T WIS
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Hello and thanks for your feedback. The pam style screws have thread in the lug on the watch and when that strips, the screw in bars don't work, so then you have to use the pam spring bars and..... the bracelet won't work with them, so you have to use the leather only. the bars and screws we are using can be replaced, I have them and can ship them to you, and the watch is like new. The factory applied the loc-tite, I guess they were trying to go the extra step and did not know people would be removing the bracelet. They are outstanding engineers and machinists, but that doesn't mean they are WIS. I just wanted to provide some insight into our decision making. Kind Regards, Steve
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2009 01:45 pm |
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10th Post |
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bigrustypig 3T WIS 
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Maybe I belong to the old school and prefer spring bars. About 80% of my collection uses spring bars. Whenever I wear a watch with screws, I always, always give the screw heads a look just to make sure they are still embedded and tight enough. With springs bars, it's practically "attach and forget".;)
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2009 03:24 pm |
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11th Post |
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Janner 3T WIS
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The bars and screws as fitted to the Morays will be much stronger than spring bars. The only function of the screw is to prevent the bar from sliding out, any shear load will be taken on the solid bar. Spring bars are made up of several sliding tubes and a spring which is probably the weakest link holding holding the watch to your wrist. I will keep the bars and screws just no locktight required.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2009 03:49 pm |
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12th Post |
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Steve Laughlin 3T WIS
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There will be no Loc-tite in the future, unless you apply it yourself.
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